Frequently Asked Questions

Nationally, HomeGuide prices installed epoxy at $4 to $10 per square foot, about $1,600 to $5,800 for a two-car garage. For polyaspartic, the range is $5 to $12 per square foot. Because old coatings, cracks and your choice of finish all shift the total, we measure and test first and give you a written number.

Plain epoxy yellows and chalks in sunlight, it takes days to cure fully before you can park on it, and it will lift if moisture builds up under it or the slab was poorly prepped. We deal with those by testing for moisture, diamond grinding, and using a UV-stable topcoat wherever the sun reaches.

It depends on the floor. Polyaspartic resists UV far better and cures faster, so it suits garages, lanais and any floor near daylight. Epoxy lays down more thickness with each pass, which keeps it a solid pick for interior rooms and heavy loads. A lot of our garage jobs combine the two, with epoxy underneath and polyaspartic sealing the top.

Coatings bond poorly to glazed tile and grout, and every grout line tends to show through. On most jobs we recommend removing the tile and grinding the concrete underneath. If tile removal is not an option, we can look at it on site and tell you honestly whether a coating will hold.

Usually yes, once it has been cleaned and tested. Salt water can leave salts and silt in the concrete that push coatings off later. We look for salt bloom and damaged concrete, grind deeper if needed and retest moisture before we quote.

Per HomeGuide, a polyaspartic floor is ready for heavy vehicles after roughly 24 to 48 hours, whereas a full epoxy cure can stretch out to seven days. Install-day heat and humidity shift those numbers, so you get a time worked out for your own floor.

Smooth, glossy coatings can be slick when wet. Flake floors come with some grip already, and for lanais, pool decks and solid-color floors we mix a non-slip grit into the final coat.

Many associations want to know about work in garages, lanais and shared areas, and some limit colors or work hours. Check with your association before scheduling. We can give you product sheets and a written scope to include with the request.

Usually the prep. Kits rely on etching, which leaves sealer, oil and residue in place, and they go on thin. Hot tires then pull the coating up. We grind off the failed kit and start over on clean concrete.

Yes. Trailer tires and the tongue jack put a lot of load on small spots, so we use a thicker base and can suggest a pad under the jack. Fuel and oil that drip from outboards wipe off a sealed floor instead of soaking in.

By HomeGuide's estimate, solid epoxy lasts 10 to 20 years, while thin water-based products last 3 to 5. Prep, thickness, sun exposure and the daily wear it sees make the difference.

Yes, the floor has to be clear for grinding and coating. We tell you in advance how long it needs to stay empty, which depends on the system.

A flake floor has natural texture. On solid colors we blend a non-slip grit into the topcoat, which is worth doing in a garage that sees rain or wet feet.

Less than a smooth gloss floor. The chips leave texture in the topcoat, and we can add more grit for wet areas.

They are the same thing. Installers say chip, flake or vinyl flake interchangeably; each means the colored vinyl bits scattered into the base coat.

It hides dust, sand and small marks well. Oil and fuel still need wiping, but they sit on top of the sealed floor instead of soaking into the concrete.

Yes, on covered areas especially, provided the top layer is UV stable and textured enough for wet feet. For full-sun pool decks we often suggest a cooler, lighter system.

For sun and speed, yes. HomeGuide gives it an excellent mark for UV resistance and says it cures in one to two days. Epoxy is thicker per coat and less costly, so the two are often used together.

HomeGuide says heavy vehicles in 24 to 48 hours, and Bob Vila says about 24 hours. Heat and humidity on the day change that slightly, and we tell you the exact time.

Only if the old coating is well bonded. We test and usually grind it. If it is peeling anywhere, it comes off first.

Not really. It cures quickly in the bucket and on the floor, so it needs experienced crews and small batches. Bob Vila's guide also says it is not for DIY.

Yes. Old flooring has to come up and the slab must be ground and tested. We plan the pour room by room so breaks fall at doorways.

Any glossy floor shows fine scratches over time. A tough topcoat, felt pads under furniture and a satin finish all help.

It can, but sun and hot tires are hard on it. For most garages here we suggest flake with a polyaspartic topcoat instead.

We do not recommend it. Grout lines show through and the bond to glazed tile is weak. We remove the tile and grind the concrete.

It depends on the floor size and system. Bob Vila notes a day or two is typical, and we often shorten that by working in sections, after hours or with fast-curing topcoats.

Mainly thickness and chemistry. Commercial floors often use thicker 100% solids epoxy (HomeAdvisor: from $12 per square foot or more), plus topcoats chosen for the chemicals and traffic involved.

Yes. Kitchens need slip-resistant texture and coved bases. Check with your health inspector about any requirements and we will match them.

Yes. Those floors need resistance to fuel, hydraulic fluid and solvents, and heavy rolling loads. We plan the system around what is spilled and driven on.

Usually not as is. Old paint and worn coatings get ground away so the new system can grip bare concrete.

Usually, if the concrete under it is sound. Loose, hollow or badly settled areas may need repair first. We check during the estimate.

Light-colored, textured surfaces stay cooler than dark or smooth ones. HomeGuide notes that cool-deck style surfaces help lower surface temperature.

Plain epoxy yellows in full sun. For open decks we prefer cool-deck style surfaces, overlays or UV-stable systems with grit, and keep epoxy for covered areas with a protective topcoat.

It depends on the surface and the weather. We give you a specific time after the work is done.

Many associations want to approve exterior color changes. Check with yours before you pick a color, and we will provide samples and product information.